Phnom Penh: Quick and Dirty

Phnom Penh. A city whose name brings up images of the killing fields and the torture chambers of S21.

I found it to be comparatively nice.

You can read almost anything I would tell you about the city online. So I’ll give you a couple cool clues I dug up while surfing the city and hopefully it will ease your time here, should you decide to visit.

First off, you can get a tuk-tuk ride anywhere for half the offered price is you are willing to haggle.

Cooking classes, well worth it, are $20 for a full day at Frizz. Don’t trust me? Go swing by there one night for dinner. Best food I ate in Cambodia, hands down.

The prices you can find online for the Phnom Penh Shooting Range are wrong. Most of the guns are double what you find online. If you are slick, you can may be able to get up to a 20% discount, but it requires some fast talk. More details here…

The riverbank makes for some great jogging early in the morning. Have at it.

Khmer coffee is pretty unique tasting. I loved it. Try it.

Rondeng is no secret, but they do serve tarantulas if you are up for it. More details and a short video coming up.

All in all, from traffic to firearms, cuisine to smiles, Phnom Penh was an engaging city. Not a bad place to kill a few days.

Frizz: Khmer Cooking at it’s best!

It’s no secret that this trip has been all about discovery. Self discovery, and discovering the world. One of the best (and strangest) parts of this has been discovering new food!

The Khmer Empire ruled over much of South East Asia a thousand years ago. Nowadays, you can find hints of their cuisine on the menu is most neighboring countries. Yes, even Thai food takes a bit from Khmer.

Thai cooking classes costing what they did ($$$), I didn’t take the time. Khmer cooking classes, costing $20 or less for the day, I couldn’t refuse.

I discovered Frizz quite by accident. One of those shot in the dark meals that yielded glorious fruit. This was the best food I ate in Cambodia.

The class started with a trip to the market to see just how things function. The local color was out in full force and it was a trip to remember. Even though I can’t remember the names of all the weird things the cook showed us.

Next, we ran back to a building near the restaurant and started in. First, we made fresh spring rolls. Some were better than others.

Next, a strangely tasty dish called Amok that is cooked in a banana leaf cup. It’s a Cambodian signature dish.

Making Curry powder from scratch takes a small eternity without a power tool of some sort. Mortar and pestle is neat for nostalgias sake, but that was hard work.

I shot about 30 minutes of video so you could see and hear the experience, but I had the microphone on mute, so it was pretty useless. You’ll just have to use your imagination.

I only went for the half day class, but I got the cookbook for all the recipes. If you are in Phnom Penh, go to Frizz and get cooking.

Wrap-Up:

Frizz Restaurant
#67 Street 240, Phnom Penh
T: +855 (0)23 – 220 953 / +855 (0)12 – 845 525

Home on the Range: Phnom Penh

Think of the loudest bang you have ever heard.

Now, multiply that sound by ten.

Now, place that sound next to your ear.

Now make a tree explode.

That was the high point of my day.

The Phnom Penh Shooting Range is all over the web, though they don’t have their own web page. If you are anywhere in the city, the shooting range is pretty easy to get to. The shooting range has a wide selection of guns, many of which you can buy at 7-11 in America.

Just kidding.

I own guns. I know what they are capable of and treat them with respect.

I don’t own any grenades or rocket launchers. These I was very interested in checking out!

If you climb into any tuk-tuk in the city and tell them to take you to the shooting range, you are about 20 minutes or less from this:

If this is your sort of thing, you may also want to ask about the grenade and rocket range outside the city on a military base. That’s exactly what I did.

First off, if you are traveling South East asia, there are cheaper shooting ranges. Most of the prices people quoted online were about 1/2 of the actual price it cost when I got there. After a cursory glance at the gun wall I told my host, a middle aged paratrooper with a balding pate, to take me to the big guns; the Rocket Range.

We pulled up in the desert, on what appeared to be the back 9 of a military base and met with a midget at a padlocked building. The midget loaded a guitar case and some big looking guns into the back of the truck and we drove a bit further into the brush. We all got out and the midget started carrying guns out of the back of the truck along with the guitar case; El Mariachi.

After the guy from the range slid a large tube out of the guitar case, the midget loaded a strange conical device into one end and stood there; posing.

After a minute the midget handed me the tube; the M40. I got some brief directions from the paratrooper, and then this happened.

It’s not the sort of thing you see in movies. Those you can always see coming, with you Santa’s beard plume of smoke out the back and a rudolph nose. This one still felt like Christmas, though.

I’ve already told you how loud it was, but other than the noise, it was surprisingly tame; No huge recoil, no giant jetwash. I thought it was going to be difficult to hold on to, or that the tube would be super hot after it fired; it was nothing like that.

It was a once in a lifetime shot, though, as it was expensive enough that I won’t be looking to do it again any time soon. The shot itself was $350; much more than the $200 I heard it was. For the record, they offered to set up a cow for me to shoot at for $500, which I flatly refused. Everyone knows Cambodians can’t make a good hamburger.

Wrap Up:

Jump in any tuk-tuk or taxi in Phnom Penh and say shooting range. It’s about a 20 minute ride.

It’s not cheap. They have raised prices, so any prices you find online in blogs may be only 50% of the actual price. The big one is $350 at time of writing.

Chu Chi shooting range in Vietnam is much cheaper for machine guns if you are in the area, though no other range has the rockets and grenades.

The rocket range is another 40 minutes one-way from the gun range. Plan accordingly with your day.

You can’t officially buy a cow, chicken, goat, or water buffalo to shoot. However, money talks in Cambodia.

Year One

A friend told me recently that I tend to write things that no one but me will understand. I suppose it is ok if this turns out to be one of those things.

A year ago today, following several days of airports and delays ,I left the USA, not knowing at the time I would lose the thing I valued most in the world, but find so much of myself; old and new.

I’ve gone through phases on this trip. Phases where all I could think about was a girl back home. Phases where I thought I could never leave my hammock. Phases where all I wanted to do was head back to the USA and hide from the weird wide world. Phases where I wanted a job and phases where I was afraid of the prospect of ever needing to work again.

I have learned a lot about love. I have learned to simply love and not worry about whether I am loved in return. Now that I have figured it out, it seems strange when I see others who haven’t “got it” yet. It seems strange that it was ever a foreign concept.

I’ve learned to be happy with nothing more than silence. I have learned to relish the company of friends because once you know these things every stranger is just a friend waiting to happen. I have learned that new friends don’t replace the old ones.

I learned that it’s ok to be sad and that dying from a life well lived is a better thing than living forever in the shadow of fear or inadequacy.

I have learned how to communicate with people in many languages, but I still think the best way is a smile and a hug.

I don’t know what kind of anniversary this is, and I’m not even sure it is something to be celebrated. If something does get celebrated, though, I hope it is more the feeling I left in a persons heart than any time frame I managed to keep on the move. I hope it is a small ache, or a secret smile that someone will remember; not just today, but often and without fanfare.

To everyone who has been a part of this scary and marvelous year, I say, “Thank you.”

Angkor Wat?!

American dollars. American music. American citizens. How is this Asia again?

Upon my arrival at the border to Cambodia, I was given a number of lectures on how to change money and how to spend Thai Baht and US Dollars. Most of it was in order to aid our guide in his money making scheme at the Thailand-Cambodia border, but some of it was useful; like the statement that you can indeed spend both the aforementioned currencies everywhere in Cambodia along with the local currency; Riel.

Upon my arrival in Siem Reap, I noticed the place was filled with Americans and all the prices were in USD the music was American Top 40 minus Casey Kasem. It was a little strange.

After a day of necessary downtime from the night in Bangkok with my Irish friend, Justin, I was ready to attack the Temples.

Angkor Wat is a relatively well known temple. That is to say it is the World’s largest religious site. It is also the only thing that many people know about Cambodia. In recent years, Cambodia has added the Killing Fields to their short list of “accomplishments.”

For roughly 900 years, Angkor Wat has been a symbol of Cambodia and the Khmer people. More recently, movies such as Tomb Raider have popularized some of the areas. This week, I finally got around to checking it out.

Now, THIS is Asia.

The scale and intricacy of the temples was like nothing I have seen. By way of comparison, Tikal was much taller, Machu Pichu was more difficult to access, and Copan was nearly as intricate. Angkor Wat was expansive, highly intricate, easily accessible and had as rich and convoluted a history as any religious site I have seen. There was always something new to gawk at.

Perhaps that’s why I lost my guide.

Sometime shortly after entering Angkor Wat I lost sight of the band of Americans I met up with in the early morning and our guide. This wasn’t the first time it had happened; By, our guide, had made a practice of wandering off all day, and though his English was good, his accent was just too difficult for me to hang with, so I wasn’t understanding most of what he said anyway.

For much of the main complex of Angkor Wat itself, I was on my own and just wandering around. I got some quiet time occasionally, was accosted my ladies selling water and children selling baubles, and generally had a good time checking out the scenery.

Finally, thanks to some colorful clothing, I just happened to notice my crew near a pond and meet up with them.

The guide was less than concerned with me and my whereabouts. When I returned, I learned that two other people had gone missing as well during our circuit. That’s 50% of our group of 6. I didn’t feel so bad for getting lost.

The history of the temples in this area is a mix of multiple religions, Muslims, different branches of Buddhism, and Hinduism. There are large empty sections where one conquering group simply scratched the walls clean of old religious symbols. The timeline is traceable though, and you get a clear picture of the history of the temples as you go.

One thing that really struck me about the Angkor Wat specifically is what might be a refugee camp that has sprung up around the main entrance. Locals, complete with pets and children, have set up shop here in an attempt to get any and all tourist dollars possible. It’s like another town.

All in all, if you are a history or temple buff, this place is for you. Machu Pichu will still stand out in my mind as the greatest old city I have ever visited, but Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples are certainly impressive to see. If you are in the area, look it up.

Wrap Up:

Guides and transportation are inexpensive. The 6 of us paid less than $9 each for a full day of English guide, tuk-tuk and drinking water.

You can book any standard or custom trip through any hostel or hotel in town. The hostels will probably cost you less for the trip.

Locals prefer dollars. Even the ATMs don’t give riel. Riel only seems to be given as change to USD. $1 US is about 4000 riel at time of writing.

Have fun, ask questions, feel free to catch a tuk-tuk ride to the temples and just hang out with another tour going through, no one seems to mind.

Cambodia: First Impressions

I am in a tourist bubble.

From the border to Siem Reap, I am aware that nothing is authentic. It is made as it is to be comfortable and easy for me to spend my money with the locals.

Food is more expensive here than in Thailand, which is odd considering the disparate states of stability of the currencies.

The people are nice here, but there is sort of an unspoken shield of customer service that encases all interactions. I think I have yet to actually “touch” someone.

Siem Reap appears only to employ people who serve tourists. This is not surprising as the proximity to Angkor Wat makes any business that does not cater to the foreign tourists somewhat less profitable than those that do.

I’m surrounded by American dollars, American citizens, and American Music. The feeling is rather surreal.

Not everyone is an American, though. I’ve spent the last several hours speaking Japanese and Spanish with a couple of other tourists here, Toshi and Gabriel, just for practice. It’s a nice change.

Soon, I’ll be jungle hopping and checking out the rougher side of things, but for right now, at least… I feel a little displaced.

Thailand: Exit Interview

Thailand; meaning Land of the Free. That seems to be the pervading theme here. You are free to do whatever you want, but at your own risk.

After a month and a half here, I am still as excited about this country as I was after arriving. The people are full of smiles, and it is just easy to be a farang, or foreigner, in Thailand.

Project Terminator was a huge success in many ways. I dropped a lot of excess weight I had been packing on. I feel more confident with my fighting skills, and I am more aware of where I need to work harder. I met brilliant folks from all over, and really got to know some Thai people in the month I stayed in Phuket.

I still love Thai food! It’s funny, years ago I decided I didn’t like Thai food even though I had barely ever had it. Now with more exposure to it, I still want to eat it every day.

With so many new sights, sounds, and bruises that I found in Thailand, I was often overwhelmed and almost always tired… but I’m going to try and wrap some of them up with a brief, yet familiar, exit interview.

Q: What did you spend your money on?
New Shorts! After a year, I finally retired the shorts I started out with, as they had both been repaired numerous times and were quickly passing the point of no return. I certainly did not spend a lot on food. Food was cheap and delicious. Transportation was relatively cheap as well. We caught a bus across the country for 1/2 of what my new shorts cost.
Q: What is one thing you will never forget?
The constant laughter and smiles of the staff at Mama’s! It was a constant bolster after so much abuse at Tiger.
Q: Of all the places you went to, which did you enjoy the most and why?
Koh Lipe. Such a calm and peaceful place. Aside from the dog eating the frisbee, it was perfect. Snorkeling off the coast of Koh Lipe for Christmas is probably my best memory. So much fun, sun, and adventure in such a quiet setting!
Q: What did you learn about yourself?
I need to perfect my defense mechanisms. Both in the ring and out of it. Something to keep working on.
Q: What is one mistake you made in Thailand?
Going out for “a beer” with an Irishman. Ouch.
Q: What will you miss the most?
The constant endorphin high of training. Bruises, sweat, blood; all of that made me feel fantastic for the rest of the day.
Q: What frustrated you the most about Thailand or your experiences?
The Visa! When I entered, I came in through a small outpost on an island, so I was only given a 2 week visa as opposed to 2 months if I had flown in. Luckily, Zsofi thought about it and I caught it without needing to pay for overstaying, but I had to pay for visa extensions and make a Border Run to Burma to extend for another two weeks. It was an unnecessary hassle.
Q: What made you smile?
Being punched in the face. Seriously. Simon, Tiger’s resident Yogi, taught us that when great Thai boxers get hit particularly hard, they smile. So I took that into the ring. Every time I got my bell rung or knocked down (which happened more often than I would like to admit) I would smile as big as I could and get right back to it.
Q : What is your favorite smell about Thailand?

Chilis, garlic, sweat, and blood. There was this extremely weird smell on one walkway at the Tiger Muay Thai camp. Behind the kitchen, and between two of the fighting areas in the morning. Once the kitchen started preparing for the day, the seasonings would start to filter out and mix in with the smell of violence, old and new.

Thailand is really “at your own risk.” Cliff diving, boxing rings in bars, a distinct lack of handrails; you need to keep your head on straight. It’s brilliant, but you have to have a clear internal sense of when to ‘Stop’ because no one is going to impose a limit on you. Excess in almost encouraged here, so if you are not careful you will find yourself somewhere you may not want to be; i.e. in a ditch or in bad company. I have truly enjoyed Thailand; in speaking of the country as a whole, not necessarily about the certain areas of Bangkok we all have heard about, it has been one of the easiest countries I have seen in terms of getting anything you could want, getting around safely, quickly, and not getting ripped off.

This is coming from a guy who never thought he would go to Thailand. I thought it was all about prostitution and insane parties, but that is only the most talked about aspects. There was peace and quiet when I wanted it, social life to be had, exercise, great food, and friendship on every corner. Thailand is definitely on my Top 5. Do like I did and go see for yourself.

Project Terminator: Wrap Up

Oohweeeeee!!!

That was the noise that every one of the Muay Thai coaches made when I punched or kicked or elbowed the striking pads with particular force and accuracy. I can still hear the different versions of the noise and see the associated faces. I didn’t hear this a lot when I started.

In reflection, I remember early days where I was just going through the motions, and I remember the exhausted satisfaction that came from the later days where I gave it everything I had. I have not taken so many mid-day naps since I was a baby.

These trainers are tough. While a professional western boxer may have 50 fights by the end of his career, some of these coaches boast over 350 fights and still counting; they start young. When they get injured, their solution is to train harder. It’s unreal. The commitment level of these coaches coupled with their laughter and smiles kept me pushing my limits for weeks on end.

The weeks seem to have been distinct phases in themselves.

Week one was mostly making my body accustomed to the stress and ready for real workouts. I limited myself to about 4 hours a day of exercise. Then about 4 hours a day at the pool or beach.

Week two was where I turned up the heat. I pushed it out to around 7 hours a day and really just tried to put in the time and eat properly. By the end of week 2 I could physically see the change in my body; muscles appearing in my legs, gut shrinking. My energy level was increasing every day and I could work that much harder.

Week three was great. Energy level was off the charts, I could push it all day. My shoulders didn’t ache from swinging the sticks for hours on end. The bruises were healing faster. I was happier. Everything seemed to be coming together. After weeks with no alcohol, I felt like Superman.

Week 4 was short. As my Thailand Visa  was expiring, I only got to spend a few days training, but they were great. I had acquired friends all over the camp and there was always a friendly smile to be had. The routine felt good. It was hard to leave.

The whole daily process could get pretty gross. I have never had so many other peoples sweat all over me in my life, aside from perhaps a California warehouse party. Showering simply became a necessity several times a day, as did Tiger Balm: maintenance.

I watched some of the other guys go out and sample the night life in nearby Patong and Phuket Town, but I just couldn’t imagine tagging along with them; I needed my sleep, and the stories they came back with were like something out of a comic book.

Living and training at Tiger Muay Thai was an experience like none other. It wasn’t a boring place. There was no complaining, no griping, no politics; it was just people who wanted to be there and were working their butts off for themselves and no one else.

Simon, Tiger Muay Thai’s resident Yogi, said, “This is not an ashram or a temple: life here is different. With the sounds and clatter of battle around you, you cannot fool yourself. You are not a monk. You are a warrior.”

Words had power there as much as fists. We would start every day with the words, directed at what the Thais call pran (the life force that surrounds us), “Protect me. Evolve me to the highest good. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.”

This was possibly the best vacation I could imagine for someone like me. I would love to make this an annual thing. This was a move from apprehension to truth in much the way that this entire trip has been; it was the microcosm of the macrocosm.

When I paint the picture this way, the patterns come out.

This didn’t start easy; training at Tiger was a lot like this trip.  Dangerous, intense, requiring a huge commitment and offering comparable rewards. It didn’t start easy. I fell down… a lot.

As things progressed, I gained experience. Things moved more smoothly, fists and feet started landing where I wanted them to. The sticks that were lead in my arms after an hour, soon became smooth graceful instruments as extensions of my arms.

Training at Tiger was good for me. Now, the daily routine is over, but so much of it stays with me. The friends I made, the coordination, the knowledge, the renewed sense of health and strength; all this I take away with me.

In times like this we learn and relearn that life’s challenges become easier and that when it is difficult, determination sees us through. Soon we are doing things that might have seemed like magic even a short time ago. If you can apply the formula of determination, commitment and consistency then experience will start to fill in the rest and soon, we are performing sorcery where we were stumbling just a short time ago.

This applies to anything in our lives; a huge trip around the world, learning a new martial art, or a lifetime with a partner. We just have to start, then stick with it. It gets easier and easier, and one day someone watching will simply mistake it for being effortless. You’ll just have to explain it to them.

Project Terminator: Week One Wrap-Up

For the end of week one of Project Terminator, rather than just type up some of my observations, I thought I would try something different and toss in a quick video journal. Is this something I should do more often? Let me know what you think.