Saint Valentine in Laos

First of all, before you look at any of these pictures, let me assure you that I am a total dork.

I am sure I will try to deny this at some point in the future when I have children and finally need to appear to be an authority figure, but here it is in writing.

Luang Prabang was a cool little town. It’s easy to get there by plane; one of the better flying experiences of my life actually. It is relatively well connected by bus, though Laos bus trips are prone to excess adventure. It is also where I spent Valentine’s Day this year.

You don’t need to book a place ahead of time. There are dozens of places everywhere; several of them named “Merry.” It can get expensive, anywhere from $20-$50 a night for a guest house and the amenities vary somewhat, though they all seem to be quite clean.

There is a lot to do in town; eat food, watch monks, read books. A fantastic way to kill some time is to go and be an English tutor with the Big Brother Mouse people. Depending on their projects, they can use all manner of help with their book and literacy projects, but this is an easy way to start getting involved; every monrning 9-11 a.m.

There is a cool mountain covered with temples nearby named, rather tragically, Phu Si. It’s a great place to catch the sunset, talk to Buddha, or ride a dragon.

While the city is full of restaraunts, I found Lao Lao Garden had a certain charm. Check it out if you get a chance. Try the Water Buffalo.

As all good things must come to an end, Zsofi left to head back to Thailand and I was left with a couple days to kill before I went south to Vientiane. I did what may stand as the best thing I had done in Laos. Yes, even better than the elephants.

I went for a walk.

I just picked a direction out of town and started walking until roads disappeared and were replaced by dirt tracks. I saw all manner of great people doing everyday stuff that I would never have had a chance to see otherwise. I met children mostly, and cackling old ladies. The day was simple and awe inspiring.

I sat in a bamboo hut on the edge of the river and relaxed while locals played and fished.

I walked down the road and followed an old woman with a machete and an umbrella for a while. I simply watched life happen around me.

As it was Valentine’s day, there were random flower stands set up along the way, though those disappeared with the roads. My hotel owner, a strange local man who had acquired some decent English skills and lost most of his hair, had given me a rose and a small box of chocolates earlier in the day. I stopped at the first little girl who waved at me (she was probably 3) and gave her the flower and candies. She was completely unimpressed. Her mom thought it was hilarious.

Towards the end, I found myself watching the sun fall out of the sky from the porch of a strangers home, surrounded by kids and their moms, sipping an indiscernible drink and eating food of some unknown substance and laughing ceaselessly. This went on for some time as we traded snacks and reaffirmed our complete inability to communicate using spoken words. This kid even gave me a handful of whatever egg/bread substance he was eating. I didn’t actually try it, but it’s the thought that counts, right?

At the end of the day, I realized that everyone I had met had been happy (except for my little Valentine.) Everyone I had met had almost nothing. Sometimes, I am confused by this. How can they have nothing and be so content?

That’s when I realize that they are looking at us and wondering why, when we already have everything, do we still want more?

Wrap Up:

Luang Prabang is an easy flight from most places, or an all day bus from the capital, Vientiane.

There are so many places to stay, you really don’t need to book ahead. Also, the restaurant Utopia is not all it is hyped to be. Nice decor, poor food, drink, and location. Don’t sweat it.

The town is easily walkable, so the only time you should ever need a tuk-tuk is when you are trying to find an elusive ATM.

Again, get out of town. Rent a scooter, take a walk, ride a bicycle; do whatever you have to to get out into the villages and interact with people. They will love you.