Cambodia: First Impressions

I am in a tourist bubble.

From the border to Siem Reap, I am aware that nothing is authentic. It is made as it is to be comfortable and easy for me to spend my money with the locals.

Food is more expensive here than in Thailand, which is odd considering the disparate states of stability of the currencies.

The people are nice here, but there is sort of an unspoken shield of customer service that encases all interactions. I think I have yet to actually “touch” someone.

Siem Reap appears only to employ people who serve tourists. This is not surprising as the proximity to Angkor Wat makes any business that does not cater to the foreign tourists somewhat less profitable than those that do.

I’m surrounded by American dollars, American citizens, and American Music. The feeling is rather surreal.

Not everyone is an American, though. I’ve spent the last several hours speaking Japanese and Spanish with a couple of other tourists here, Toshi and Gabriel, just for practice. It’s a nice change.

Soon, I’ll be jungle hopping and checking out the rougher side of things, but for right now, at least… I feel a little displaced.

Thailand: Exit Interview

Thailand; meaning Land of the Free. That seems to be the pervading theme here. You are free to do whatever you want, but at your own risk.

After a month and a half here, I am still as excited about this country as I was after arriving. The people are full of smiles, and it is just easy to be a farang, or foreigner, in Thailand.

Project Terminator was a huge success in many ways. I dropped a lot of excess weight I had been packing on. I feel more confident with my fighting skills, and I am more aware of where I need to work harder. I met brilliant folks from all over, and really got to know some Thai people in the month I stayed in Phuket.

I still love Thai food! It’s funny, years ago I decided I didn’t like Thai food even though I had barely ever had it. Now with more exposure to it, I still want to eat it every day.

With so many new sights, sounds, and bruises that I found in Thailand, I was often overwhelmed and almost always tired… but I’m going to try and wrap some of them up with a brief, yet familiar, exit interview.

Q: What did you spend your money on?
New Shorts! After a year, I finally retired the shorts I started out with, as they had both been repaired numerous times and were quickly passing the point of no return. I certainly did not spend a lot on food. Food was cheap and delicious. Transportation was relatively cheap as well. We caught a bus across the country for 1/2 of what my new shorts cost.
Q: What is one thing you will never forget?
The constant laughter and smiles of the staff at Mama’s! It was a constant bolster after so much abuse at Tiger.
Q: Of all the places you went to, which did you enjoy the most and why?
Koh Lipe. Such a calm and peaceful place. Aside from the dog eating the frisbee, it was perfect. Snorkeling off the coast of Koh Lipe for Christmas is probably my best memory. So much fun, sun, and adventure in such a quiet setting!
Q: What did you learn about yourself?
I need to perfect my defense mechanisms. Both in the ring and out of it. Something to keep working on.
Q: What is one mistake you made in Thailand?
Going out for “a beer” with an Irishman. Ouch.
Q: What will you miss the most?
The constant endorphin high of training. Bruises, sweat, blood; all of that made me feel fantastic for the rest of the day.
Q: What frustrated you the most about Thailand or your experiences?
The Visa! When I entered, I came in through a small outpost on an island, so I was only given a 2 week visa as opposed to 2 months if I had flown in. Luckily, Zsofi thought about it and I caught it without needing to pay for overstaying, but I had to pay for visa extensions and make a Border Run to Burma to extend for another two weeks. It was an unnecessary hassle.
Q: What made you smile?
Being punched in the face. Seriously. Simon, Tiger’s resident Yogi, taught us that when great Thai boxers get hit particularly hard, they smile. So I took that into the ring. Every time I got my bell rung or knocked down (which happened more often than I would like to admit) I would smile as big as I could and get right back to it.
Q : What is your favorite smell about Thailand?

Chilis, garlic, sweat, and blood. There was this extremely weird smell on one walkway at the Tiger Muay Thai camp. Behind the kitchen, and between two of the fighting areas in the morning. Once the kitchen started preparing for the day, the seasonings would start to filter out and mix in with the smell of violence, old and new.

Thailand is really “at your own risk.” Cliff diving, boxing rings in bars, a distinct lack of handrails; you need to keep your head on straight. It’s brilliant, but you have to have a clear internal sense of when to ‘Stop’ because no one is going to impose a limit on you. Excess in almost encouraged here, so if you are not careful you will find yourself somewhere you may not want to be; i.e. in a ditch or in bad company. I have truly enjoyed Thailand; in speaking of the country as a whole, not necessarily about the certain areas of Bangkok we all have heard about, it has been one of the easiest countries I have seen in terms of getting anything you could want, getting around safely, quickly, and not getting ripped off.

This is coming from a guy who never thought he would go to Thailand. I thought it was all about prostitution and insane parties, but that is only the most talked about aspects. There was peace and quiet when I wanted it, social life to be had, exercise, great food, and friendship on every corner. Thailand is definitely on my Top 5. Do like I did and go see for yourself.

Project Terminator: Wrap Up

Oohweeeeee!!!

That was the noise that every one of the Muay Thai coaches made when I punched or kicked or elbowed the striking pads with particular force and accuracy. I can still hear the different versions of the noise and see the associated faces. I didn’t hear this a lot when I started.

In reflection, I remember early days where I was just going through the motions, and I remember the exhausted satisfaction that came from the later days where I gave it everything I had. I have not taken so many mid-day naps since I was a baby.

These trainers are tough. While a professional western boxer may have 50 fights by the end of his career, some of these coaches boast over 350 fights and still counting; they start young. When they get injured, their solution is to train harder. It’s unreal. The commitment level of these coaches coupled with their laughter and smiles kept me pushing my limits for weeks on end.

The weeks seem to have been distinct phases in themselves.

Week one was mostly making my body accustomed to the stress and ready for real workouts. I limited myself to about 4 hours a day of exercise. Then about 4 hours a day at the pool or beach.

Week two was where I turned up the heat. I pushed it out to around 7 hours a day and really just tried to put in the time and eat properly. By the end of week 2 I could physically see the change in my body; muscles appearing in my legs, gut shrinking. My energy level was increasing every day and I could work that much harder.

Week three was great. Energy level was off the charts, I could push it all day. My shoulders didn’t ache from swinging the sticks for hours on end. The bruises were healing faster. I was happier. Everything seemed to be coming together. After weeks with no alcohol, I felt like Superman.

Week 4 was short. As my Thailand Visa  was expiring, I only got to spend a few days training, but they were great. I had acquired friends all over the camp and there was always a friendly smile to be had. The routine felt good. It was hard to leave.

The whole daily process could get pretty gross. I have never had so many other peoples sweat all over me in my life, aside from perhaps a California warehouse party. Showering simply became a necessity several times a day, as did Tiger Balm: maintenance.

I watched some of the other guys go out and sample the night life in nearby Patong and Phuket Town, but I just couldn’t imagine tagging along with them; I needed my sleep, and the stories they came back with were like something out of a comic book.

Living and training at Tiger Muay Thai was an experience like none other. It wasn’t a boring place. There was no complaining, no griping, no politics; it was just people who wanted to be there and were working their butts off for themselves and no one else.

Simon, Tiger Muay Thai’s resident Yogi, said, “This is not an ashram or a temple: life here is different. With the sounds and clatter of battle around you, you cannot fool yourself. You are not a monk. You are a warrior.”

Words had power there as much as fists. We would start every day with the words, directed at what the Thais call pran (the life force that surrounds us), “Protect me. Evolve me to the highest good. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.”

This was possibly the best vacation I could imagine for someone like me. I would love to make this an annual thing. This was a move from apprehension to truth in much the way that this entire trip has been; it was the microcosm of the macrocosm.

When I paint the picture this way, the patterns come out.

This didn’t start easy; training at Tiger was a lot like this trip.  Dangerous, intense, requiring a huge commitment and offering comparable rewards. It didn’t start easy. I fell down… a lot.

As things progressed, I gained experience. Things moved more smoothly, fists and feet started landing where I wanted them to. The sticks that were lead in my arms after an hour, soon became smooth graceful instruments as extensions of my arms.

Training at Tiger was good for me. Now, the daily routine is over, but so much of it stays with me. The friends I made, the coordination, the knowledge, the renewed sense of health and strength; all this I take away with me.

In times like this we learn and relearn that life’s challenges become easier and that when it is difficult, determination sees us through. Soon we are doing things that might have seemed like magic even a short time ago. If you can apply the formula of determination, commitment and consistency then experience will start to fill in the rest and soon, we are performing sorcery where we were stumbling just a short time ago.

This applies to anything in our lives; a huge trip around the world, learning a new martial art, or a lifetime with a partner. We just have to start, then stick with it. It gets easier and easier, and one day someone watching will simply mistake it for being effortless. You’ll just have to explain it to them.

Project Terminator: Week One Wrap-Up

For the end of week one of Project Terminator, rather than just type up some of my observations, I thought I would try something different and toss in a quick video journal. Is this something I should do more often? Let me know what you think.

Thailand and Project Terminator

For the month of January, I will be in Thailand training at a Muay Thai / MMA camp: Tiger Muay Thai. I’ll be training, 6 days a week,  in Muay Thai, MMA, Jiu Jitsu, stick and knife fighting, and even yoga.

I’m calling it Project Terminator.

This is all in an effort to convert my travel worn body back into something of a specimen to behold.

I have a Thai number: +66 (0) 83-392-2967, and incoming calls are free, so skype me if you get bored. Also, if you know anyone in the Phuket area who feels like hanging out (or has a guitar) send them my way!